The Southern Foodways Alliance will pay tribute to “El Sur Latino” at their annual Fall Symposium this weekend.
Journalist, author and symposium presenter Gustavo Arellano says that having the entire SFA conference centered around Latinos in the South is “the culmination of a fever dream.”
“25 years ago there were next to no Latinos in the South, it was a very small community, now it’s increased,”Arellano explained. “Even in Mississippi, beyond the restaurants, you have communities now of immigrants that are raising their families, and Mexican-Americans moving to the South for better opportunities and they are changing the dynamic in the south.”
Arellano was first invited to speak on Latino migration at the SFA Symposium in 2013 and then again in 2015, and eventually was given a column in the SFA’s journal Gravy where he tackles subjects such as Taco Literacy- which was written conjunction with fellow presenter Steven Alvarez.
Alvarez, who is a Smith fellow has been invited to the symposium for the past two years and will present a paper this year about a place called Plaza Fiesta off of the Buford Highway in Atlanta.
“It’s just been a really dynamic group of folks that get together and really find new ways to think about food and the people behind it,” said Alvarez, who’s scholarly background is rooted in language and literacy but shifted more towards food after visiting the symposium for the first time.
Arellano’s work for Gravy also inspired the Saturday-night closing performance of the conference, which will feature California-based group La Victoria who will play traditional Mexican ballads called corridos, as well as their own original compositions.
“That came about from the column that I did we found the oldest known corrido about the South called ‘Enganche de Mississippi,’ which roughly translates to ‘The Mississippi Job’,” Arellano explained. This song, recorded in the 1930s is the oldest known corrido about work in the South.
SFA Associate director Mary Beth Lasseter said that the singers will present in conjunction with Augustin Gurza. “The musical group is going to meet with some of the attendees of the event and they are going to write some original corridas and workshop them during the symposium,” she said.
According to Lasseter, the SFA usually welcomes around 350-400 people to the events. Lasseter said of that number 40-50 are locals, and 350 or so are out-of-town visitors. The 20th Anniversary of the symposium will be marked with a screening a film looking back at the conference’s last two decades. The SFA itself, which evolved out of the symposium, will celebrate its 20th anniversary next year.
This year’s menu features dishes from Tex-Mex brisket tacos to Venezuelan delicacies, spanning the diaspora of the Latino palate.
“A lot of “Latinos” aren’t considered Latinos until they come to the United States,” Lasseter explained. “They aren’t Latinos and they aren’t Hispanics, they are Cubans or Venezuelans or they are Mexicans and then they come to the Southern United States and they get re-labeled.”
She hopes that the symposium will help highlight the diverse culinary traditions of several different heritage in the South. Presenting chefs include Houstonian James-Beard-award-winner Hugo Ortega, and Eddy Hernandez and of Taqueria del Sol with locations in Atlanta and Nashville. There will even be a Friday night trip out to Taylor for catfish, which has become a staple event of the symposium.
The event will be extended with a corresponding mixed-media exhibit at the Powerhouse which will be on display until the end of the month.
For the first time this year, the SFA is making provisions to share the conference with those who can’t make it to the conference through their website. “We can’t make the meals a virtual experience,” Lasseter explained, “But after the event, if there are any discussions that have interested people we will be posting the videos from those talks online throughout the week.”
